Global Correspondents is where cool people put us on to cool things happening all over the world. In this edition, we're tapping in with Meghan Nguy. Meghan is a New York-based makeup artist and beauty consultant, born and raised in LA. Her distinct style blends artistic sensibility with a deep appreciation for people and everyday beauty, an eye that also fuels her love of food, travel, and culture.

Photos by Meghan Nguy.

Oodles of Noodles:
Vietnam with Meghan Nguy

It was when I sipped my first spoonful of Bún Bò Huế in Da Nang that my whole life flashed before my eyes. My eyes welled up, the way you’d imagine someone who’s in their final moments would — with the memories of their past, a bit of regret for things left unsaid or undone, and, (hopefully) a sense of peace. At this moment, I felt a mix of emotions. Although I felt bliss from the flavors I was tasting, I mostly felt regret that all this time, I hadn’t had Bún bò Huế much… if at all. Bún bò Huế is another one of Vietnam’s broth-based iconic noodle soup dishes, slightly spicy and deeply savory. Some have called it phở’s spicy older cousin.

I felt a tinge of sadness that I missed out on half a lifetime of this delicious, rich, but delicate bowl of hearty noodle soup goodness. I couldn’t forgive myself for all the times I chose Phở or Hủ tiếu over THIS. Not that I shouldn’t have ordered the Phở or Hủ tiếu, but that I could have given Bún bò Huế a little air time too.

Markets of Da Nang

My family and I arrived in Da Nang after an 18-hour overnight train ride from Ho Chi Minh City. It was 6 am. Aside from the small bites of guava and mango with muối ót (chili salt), phở bò (beef pho) flavored chips, and bánh mì que from the snack cart on the train, we hadn’t had a proper meal for nearly 24 hours. We were hungry. We dropped our bags at the hotel and went to what should be the first destination of any new Vietnamese city – the market or chợ.

The markets in Vietnam aren’t like the markets we in the western world typically think of. They’re often outdoors, vibrant, and bustling with crowds of people, mopeds and vendors. Daily seafood catches are displayed on round stainless steel or colorful plastic trays. Arrays of fresh vegetables are neatly arranged in woven bamboo baskets; rice and other grains stand 3 feet tall in bags. Spices, sauces, and snacks are sold in ballooned plastic bags tied with a rubber band reminiscent of a goldfish prize at the local carnival. Somewhere in every market is a food hall lined with stainless steel stalls and stools serving local dishes and that was what we were looking for.

There she was, at the end of this rather small food hall, in the very corner of the market with a straight pathway leading directly to her. She was this elegant, enchanting, older woman in a floral cardigan with red chrysanthemum and a gold chain peeking from under it. Her hair was neatly pulled back in a low bun revealing her pearl earrings.

The image of this dainty woman seemed out of place against the large 3-inch thick wood cutting board full of sliced brisket and sheet trays of pork knuckle and beef bone. One indicator that she was the real deal was that she wasn’t eager to seat customers. She’s already established herself and she knows she has the recipe for liquid gold. She delicately ladled broth from a simmering 200 quart stockpot, red hot from the annatto seeds into a bowl and handed me a piece of heaven.

I was awoken from my dream-like trance by the sound of mopeds sputtering and honking only to realize I was still in my dream land – my family’s home of origin – doing exactly what I dream of: slurping a bowl of noodle soup on a stool on a warm day watching people live their lives and mopeds go by. Vietnam is a special place. One that is widely appreciated but still relatively unknown for the depths of what it is. There is a lot to learn about it but a good bowl of noodle soup seems like a good place to start.

Bún Bò Huế > Phở
Lesser-known noodles
to try in Vietnam

Bún Bò Huế (left) – The dish that inspired this all. Hailing from the imperial city of Huế, this aromatic, lemongrass-scented beef noodle soup is known for its bold flavors, thick round rice noodles, pork knuckle, and deep crimson broth, a powerful contrast to the lighter northern phở. 

Where to get it: Chợ An Hải Đông 

Phở Gà (right) – The most well-known and loved Vietnamese noodle soup with chicken. Originating in northern Vietnam, this chicken noodle soup features thicker flat rice noodles in a delicate, aromatic broth infused with ginger, onions, and fish sauce, garnished with fresh herbs and lime.

Where to get it: Phở Gà Lâm; Phở Miến Gà Kỳ Đồng

Mì Gà (left) – A light yet deeply savory soup made with egg noodles and shredded chicken, mì gà is often served where you can find phở – it’s a clean broth with a heartier egg noodles with bouncy and chewy texture.

Where I get it: Phở Miến Gà Kỳ Đồng 

Bánh Cuốn (right) – While not a noodle soup, these delicate steamed rice noodle rolls are made from thin sheets of rice batter, filled with minced pork and wood ear mushrooms, then served with herbs, fried shallots, and a side of nước chấm, showcasing Vietnam’s love of texture, subtlety, and contrast. 

Where I get it: Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành

Bún Ốc (left) – A tangy tomato-based vermicelli noodle soup made with freshwater snails, bún ốc captures the earthy and briny flavors of northern Vietnam, often includes fried tofu and is topped with perilla leaves, fried shallots, and a hint of chili.

Where I get it: Nhà Hàng Nhâm Thìn 

Bún Chả Cá (right) – A coastal specialty, this dish features vermicelli noodles topped with turmeric-marinated fish cakes or fillets, dill, and scallions. Served either dry or in broth, it reflects the vibrant, herb-forward cooking of central and southern Vietnam. 

Where I get it: Bún Chả Cá 109 109

A Vietnamese classic from the 70’s you’d appreciate called Cái Trâm Em Cài by Carol Kim