by Lester Walker

Black Seed Brothers

Photo: Renell Medrano

Black Seed Brothers

Fresh Watermelon at Black Seed Brothers on Lenox Ave

Ghetto Gastro’s profiling the slept-on, underrated eateries around the world with host Lester Walker. We're live on GGTV.

"As formerly enslaved people began to grow, sell, and profit from watermelon after the Civil War, it became a threat to the existing power structure."

Black Seed Brothers

We’re in Harlem, home of the hustlers, where they’re planting seeds both literally and figuratively at Black Seed Brothers.

Summertime in the city means watermelon on Lenox Ave. Every day, Black Seed Brothers take a trip down to southern states and back, just to bring Harlem the best watermelons they can find. That kind of dedication should be congratulated.

Maybe that’s exactly why they tried to shut it down — because nutrition in the hands of the people is power. But Harlem wasn’t having it. The community showed up in droves and over 3,000 signatures were signed to fight its closure. Even the mayor pulled up. That’s what happens when the people decide something matters.

Watermelon has long been weaponized as a racist stereotype against Black Americans. What was a culturally significant fruit became a symbol for ridicule. As formerly enslaved people began to grow, sell, and profit from watermelon after the Civil War, it became a threat to the existing power structure. This was a crop tied to land ownership and independence; a threat.

In response, media and political cartoons began to depict Black people as lazy, messy, and childlike watermelon eaters. Reclaiming watermelon today, especially in places like Harlem, becomes an act of resistance and a symbol of community and economic prosperity.

Miss Cordelia is the heartbeat of the block. She hires local teens and keeps them on. She’s not just giving out jobs, she’s passing down a lifestyle. Planting that seed for a healthier way of living because community is contagious.

I learned how to pick a good watermelon. You don’t need fancy tools, just your senses. Tap it like a drum. You’re listening for a deep and hollow knock. That sound tells you it’s ripe and full of juice. A dull thud means it’s still green inside. The darker the yellow, the sweeter the melon.

Make sure you’re eating your watermelon this season. It’s ours to reclaim.

- Chef Les

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