Mushroom Tagliatelle

Moors Legacy: Mushroom Tagliatelle

I traveled to Sicily a few years back to understand the Moors’ influence on the island. The Moors are North African dynasties who crossed the Mediterranean in the 9th century. Under their rule, the island of Sicily became a laboratory for progress.

They brought irrigation, running water, public baths, mathematics and astronomy. Agriculture was transformed too: saffron, rice, almonds, sugar, citrus, eggplant, spinach. Even the cannoli, shoutout to Madonia Brothers. The backbone of what we think of as Italian cuisine today was planted in that era.

The Moors ruled Sicily for over two centuries but their mark is everywhere. Walk through Palermo’s markets and you’ll still see their hand in the spices, sweets, architecture, even the language. Food is where the influence lingers most.

Pasta itself, grain ground fine and shaped into something long and silken, is a Moorish legacy. Which is why something as seemingly simple as buttery mushrooms over pasta is so interesting to me, and this tagliatelle is one of my favorites.

And for the mushrooms: chanterelles, golden and delicate, some of the most prized in the world. Cook them slowly in butter until they turn nutty and tender, splash with a little chicken stock, then fold them into ribbons of tagliatelle. It’s an unpretentious dish, but one that speaks to centuries of history in a single bite.

INGREDIENTS

10 oz (280g) fresh tagliatelle (or fettuccine if that’s what you have)
6 oz (170g) chanterelle mushrooms (or substitute porcini, oyster, or cremini)
3 tbsp unsalted butter (or plant-based butter)
1 garlic clove, smashed but kept whole
¼ cup chicken stock (or veggie stock for plant-based)
Sea salt, to taste
Freshly cracked black pepper
A handful of parsley, finely chopped
Grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano

CHOP IT UP

Cook the pasta. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the tagliatelle until just al dente, reserving ½ cup of pasta water before draining.

Sauté the mushrooms. In a wide skillet over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the smashed garlic clove and let it perfume the pan for 1–2 minutes, then remove. Add the mushrooms and a pinch of salt. Let them sit undisturbed for a couple of minutes to sear, then stir gently until they release juices and start to caramelize.

Build the sauce. Stir in the stock and let it simmer for a minute or two, reducing slightly until the mushrooms look glossy and the liquid coats the pan. Season with black pepper.

Bring it all together. Add the pasta straight into the pan. Toss gently, adding a splash of reserved pasta water if you need extra silkiness.

Finish and serve. Scatter with parsley, top with grated cheese, serve immediately.